QUESTIONS
ANSWERS
Q: Should I get my floors sanded before or after decorating?
A: It is always best to get your floors sanded before decorating as it is slightly dusty and the machine used for the edges may damage newly painted skirting.
Q: Can i choose a colour for my sanded flooring?
A: There are a wide variety of colours you can choose from, it is always best to see them on the actual floor being stained first before choosing.
Q: Is it going to be dusty?
A: The Floor sanding machine is not dusty but the edging machine is,the area being sanded is sealed off and all dust is vacuumed up at the end of sanding.
Q: How many coats of varnish do you put on the floor?
A: The standard amount is 3 coats, we can apply more if you want for a small additional charge.
Q: How long does the varnish take to dry?
A: We use a varnish that takes an hour to dry so you can put 2 or 3 coats on in one day giving you the chance to get back to normal living as quickly as possible.
Q: Can i choose the finish of the varnish?
A: There are 3 types of varnish matt,satin and gloss. Satin is the most popular choice.
Q: What are the differences in the three types of floor varnish?
A: Matt is a flat finish, satin has a slight sheen and gloss varnish has a very high sheen but with gloss scuff marks are easily seen and it is hard to keep really shiny.
Q: My floor has ingrained dirt and dents in it, can it be sanded?
A: We sand a couple of millimetres of the floor so marks and dirt are easily taken off the floor.
Q: Do you fill all the gaps?
A: We fill any gaps where the tongue and groove has been broken, this stops drafts coming through the floor. If you want all gaps filled this would incur an extra charge.
Q: Should I get a joiner to fix my floor?
A: In our experience joiners often don’t fix floors properly so having us do it is the best way to go as our idea of secure flooring may differ from theirs.
Q: Ive had central heating fitted and my floorboards are loose, should I try nailing or screwing it down myself?
A: You should never nail or screw flooring unless you are confident there are no pipes underneath the point you are nailing as a high amount of people do burst pipes in this way. Lifting the boards to see is the only way it should be done, securing the boards around afterwards.
Q: Is it cheaper to sand the floors myself?
A: In our experience you will never get the same finish as a professional and most people who try this end up getting someone in to sand in the end so it can work out more expensive in the long run.
Q: I want to sand the floor myself, do you have any tips to help me?
A: Firstly check the floor for nails and staples as machine hire companies make their money on burst sheets. Depending on how bumpy your floor is, start with a 24 or 36 grit paper, you should never go across the floor at a 90 degree angle. Anything 45 degrees or lower will flatten the floor for you, once it is flat "run" the floor with 36 grit. This means “with the grain” making sure you get all the "traverse" marks out. There are no real tips for the edges, just start with a 24 grit disk and finish with a 60 grit then re run the floors with an 80 or 120 grit sheet twice with either to get a good finish. Brush coat or roller on a varnish and make sure you buff in between coats and hopefully, if you’re competent enough, you should get the finish you desire.
Q: Ive heard using dust and wood glue to fill gaps is a good idea,is this true?
A: This is an old wives' tale. All that happens is that when you sand it back it looks white like the glue.
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